by Sergio and Susan Abramof

Getting through the Cleveland winter is hard work for us, and it doesn’t help that Beachwood is the buckle on the Snow Belt. We know, however, where to find comfort and warmth: culinary consolation. We can hide out in our house, put some extra logs on the fire, and plan a meal at home. Soup is a great place to start.

Soup making did start a very long time ago, and its importance is noted in what is considered the holy grail of cooking, Escoffier’s “The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery,” first published in 1907. Escoffier refers to Grimod de la Reyniere who said “The soup is to a meal as the doorway is to a monument or building; that is to say that it is not only the first part of the meal, but it also combines to give a true idea of the meal, rather as an overture to an opera announces the subject of the work.”

In our family, it also serves to set an emotional tone of calm and comfort throughout the house. Soup making begins early in the day. The aroma travels throughout the house and allows everyone to settle into the knowledge that something good is cooking and that we will eat well today. We’ll have warmth on the outside and warmth on the inside. It doesn’t get much better.

Onion soup is an aromatic and flavorful choice for this brutally cold time of year. The smell of sweet onions filling the house is irresistible. If you choose to make the soup gratinée by topping it with a toasted crouton and creamy Gruyere cheese, it becomes a meal when served with a hearty salad.

The following is not so much a recipe, but a guide to preparing this delicious soup. No one should have to follow rigid rules when making comfort food.

Onion Soup

1 stick of butter 4 onions, thinly sliced 5 cups broth 1 cup wine thinly sliced and toasted French bread Gruyere cheese, grated

Procedure: Sauté the onions in the butter in a heavy sauce pan over medium heat. The onions should slowly caramelize and develop a rich color, but must not burn. Add the stock and wine and simmer at least one hour over low heat. Adjust seasoning. If you are making gratinée version, the oven should be preheated to 425 degrees. The soup should then be ladled into ovenproof dishes, topped with croutons and gruyere cheese, and baked until the cheese is melted and super bubbly. Serves six.

Notes: If you use a beef broth, use a red wine to make the soup. If you prefer a lighter flavor, use chicken broth and a white wine instead. Add salt and pepper as needed, depending upon the intensity of the broth you use. Choose a sweet variety of onion, or add a little sugar during the sauté process. Adding a tablespoon or two of flour at the end of sautéing the onions will form a light roux and slightly thicken the soup, if you prefer that consistency.